This estate is run by the Perrin family of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. This is an impressive rosé, elegant with finely balanced fruit and texture. Citrus and raspberries shine through a taut structure. The aftertaste is crisp and fresh. Drink now.

Redcurrant compote, iron oxide and lemon make for an interesting aromatic trio on the nose. The palate adds fine freshness and vivid zestiness as well as a smooth texture that veers ever more into the spicy but ripe tartness of redcurrant. Simply lovely and so textured. That fillip of white pepper on the finish is glorious.

Pure and chiseled in feel, with racy-edged white cherry, rose petal, jicama and jasmine notes backed by a lingering wet stone accent on the finish. This has length and subtleties that set it apart from the pack. Cinsault, Grenache, Rolle and Tibouren.