What makes this wine is the fine, velvet texture at the end that rolls off the finish. Dried-citrus, pastry and light walnut aromas here. I like the subtle, woodsy undertones, more of a deep-forest kind than toastiness. It’s powerful, broad and intense, with a solid structure and framing, but a very fine texture with seamless bubbles. So textural. 80% pinot noir and 20% chardonnay. One third perpetual reserve and two thirds of 2019. Try after 2025.

A blend of 80% Pinot Noir and 20% Chardonnay, the NV Brut Grand Cru Aÿ Fût de Chêne MV19, based two-thirds on the 2019 vintage and one-third on réserve perpétuelle or soléra, exudes a delicate, pure bouquet of spices, pear, white peach and mirabelle mingled with delicate touches of vanilla pod and licorice. Medium to full-bodied, concentrated and layered, rich and perfectly balanced, it's seamless with bright acids and a long, delicate, white-pepper finish. Vinified and matured 50% in new barrels and 50% in one-year-old barrels, the oak is barely noticeable.

The MV 19 is a very sexy wine. Radiant and enveloping in feel, the 2019 shows plenty of the ripeness of the vintage, but also a good bit of energy. Lemon confit, marzipan, fresh white flowers, mint, tangerine peel and dried flowers lend nuance throughout. There’s terrific presence here, in the more laid-back style that has become the norm.

MV stands for 'multi-vintage'. This is based on 2019 with the addition of one-third older wine from a perpetual reserve (solera system) begun in 1990. Annoying agrafe clip over the cork. Pale gold. Rich nose. but with sufficient life and freshness…very nice balance. Complete and quite a feat to make a wine so interesting from such relatively young wine. Great depth and persistence.