The deep blueberry nose pulls you into this remarkably ripe and beautifully balanced 2021 Moulin-a-Vent that has what we look for in single-vineyard wines from this appellation. Gentle entry, then plenty of fine tannins at the long, velvety finish where there’s some crushed stone minerality.

The 2021 Moulin-à-Vent Clos de Rochegrès fared nicely, emitting fresh aromas of boysenberries, elderberries, lilac petals and cacao powder. The medium to full-bodied palate maintains a pleasant concentration of flavor with a core of brambly fruit yet remains lithe with bright acids.

This salty and earthy red shows real charm, with tugs of tar and hummus revealing modest notes of cherry and singed incense. A sanguine meatiness runs from beginning to end in this simmering, savory version, offering a tangy close, with menthol freshness chiming in at the end.