The complex bouquet reflects the primary fermentation in oak casks; the palate no less so thanks to the quality of the premier and grand cru reserves, also matured in oak. But it’s all a question of degree; there’s a core of citrussy acidity underwriting the freshness and length of the wine.

Attractive nose of brioche, walnuts, salted almonds and baked apples. Some nutmeg. Lovely richness of flavor yet so bright, medium-bodied, with a salty freshness and very fine bubbles. Excellent length. 2016 base vintage with 26% reserve wines going back to 2006.

Fragrant, with hints of graphite, cherry blossoms and spices, revealing a firm frame of vivid acidity that's tightly meshed with flavors of blackberry tart, lemon granita and salted Marcona almond. Shows a raw silk–textured mousse that carries a chalky note on the finish. Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay.