Ripe and round while retaining that classic Marlburian tow of fine acid persistence that gives a sense of relentlessly pulling the wine. It's pure and clean, and there's no hair out of place; the oak-derived nutty vanilla flavours sit in the background, where they ought, with bright and perky nectarine and lemon citrus to the fore. It's all technically excellent.

Lots of cooked apple pie with melon and hints of lemongrass. Full-bodied and focused with pretty fruit and not too much wood. It’s dense yet agile and delivers plenty of flavour and enjoyment.

Mostly Southern Valleys, key vineyard: Mustang. 2021 was frosted early, and they lost a little Chardonnay too. Average flowering. Warm, early year. Quite a dry autumn. All hand-picked. Lots of Mendoza clone. 22–23 °Brix. Whole-bunch pressed – mostly straight to barrel. Ambient-yeast ferment in large wooden tank. 15% new oak. 100% malo.