Where the Burnside is granitic, mineral and fine, this is pithy, saline and expansive, with layers of cheesecloth and lanolin amongst the ripe stone fruit. More volume and density of flavour than the Burnside (neither here nor there qualitatively, simply an observation), this is sensational. Utterly.

So, this 2020 Calgardup Brook Vineyard Chardonnay before me falls into that vintage stereotype: it is plush and cushioned in the mouth, with depth and breadth in the mid-palate. There’s enough acidity here to tighten up the profile through the finish while savory spice and exotic pan-roasted nuts adorn the fruit—salted peach and preserved lemon are the lingering characters.

White peach, green apple, citrus and salt, some cashew, mint and spice. Smooth, a little creamy cashew, cool feel with tangy grapefruit acidity, juicy and chalky, with a long nutty and delicious finish. Lovely.

Aromas of flint stones, dried lemons, buttered toast, green apples and dried pineapples. Sharp and focused with a medium body. Builds and opens up to sea shells and minerals. Serious chardonnay.

Fragrant bouquet of lemon and peach blossom. Fresh and crisp, with good intensity and subtle lees complexity. Well balanced.” Andrea Pritzker MW,