This is breathtaking and flatteringly class, showing dark fruit richness on the nose with floral, cedar, clove and smoked nuances. It’s immensely concentrated offering outstanding depth and density with seamless mouthfeel and lavish texture, while remaining graceful and refined, finishing magnificently long and gratifying.

Super-premium shiraz postcode 101: judicious extraction conferring tannic prowess; presumably some whole-berry work imparting floral/iodine lift and a joyous pulpy mid palate; barrel-ferment smoked-meat aromas and a skein of pepper, tapenade and clove-doused freshness. This is a bumptious warm-climate shiraz that nevertheless boasts the aromatic synergy and structural latticework of an expression from somewhere cooler.

More high-toned and red-fruited, the cherry-scented 2018 Savitar Shiraz also hints at vanilla, cedar and dried spices (from the oak) , plus some slightly darker berry notes. It’s full-bodied but tighter and more age-worthy than the GAM or Angela, with a taut, lingering finish.

Black as night, powerful blackberry, mulberry, dark chocolate are cocoa aromas are well matched to ripe sweet new oak – oak fans will be happy although the balance is right. The palate is then luscious and full with a savoury kick over dark fruits – roasted meats, spice and sage emerge over dark berry and liquorice all-sorts flavours sitting on a bed of ripe tannins. It finishes long, muscular and strong suggesting this will also age.